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ON THE INSIDE WITH MARILYN KIRSCHNER

 

Head to Toe (and everything in between) at the March Fall '07 Children's Club Show

When I mentioned to an exhibitor that I was 'responsible' for covering the accessories portion of the Children's Club (and by that I was referring to all that was NOT clothing), she quickly remarked, "Oh so that means every other booth". Well, yes. That is pretty much it in a nutshell. Accessories ARE and continue to be an ever growing segment of the entire market - regardless of age group, be it for newborns, infants, toddlers, tweens, or adults.

Indeed, as I walked the vast aisles of the sprawling Jacob Javits Center for what is known to be the biggest of the four shows held each year, I was struck by how big the accessory arena is and how important it has become. But while the March Show is a 'Fall/Winter' show, I must say, I often found myself asking, "What season is this?" Because while there certainly were enough of the predictable autumnal shades (browns, rusts, camels, black), wintry fabrics (hefty tweeds, herringbones), chunky knits, thick pile and shearling linings and trim, touches of fur (yes, the REAL thing!), luxurious cable stitch cashmeres, snugly boots, mittens, and hats, there were also many pastels, brights, beiges, lots of fresh white, bare sandals, lightweight ballerina flats, not to mention fruits, flowers, and bright graphic prints, which are unapologetically spring and summery.

And speaking of bright colors, I couldn't help but notice all the pink and green which is undoubtedly part of the wholesome preppy trend that looks so good (though I was also 'struck' by the number of women with dyed pink and green hair - but thankfully that was not part of the Children's Club but courtesy the Beauty Show which was taking place concurrently at the Javits Center).

In any event…there are a number of obvious explanations for this spanning (or ignoring) of seasons. There were many exhibitors offering merchandise for "immediate" (meaning, spring/summer) delivery; many lines by definition span the seasons (or unapologetically ignore the seasons) and pretty much stay the same year round, owing to the nature of their wares, or the needs of their target customers; many families travel; this is an international show and let's face it, if it's winter in one part of the world…it's going to be summer some place else. Interestingly, this was one of the most obvious trends I noticed when I covered New York Fashion Week for Fall 2007, as exemplified by Isaac Mizrahi who admitted that he wanted to ignore fall/winter and instead, create warm clothes in decidedly summer like colors and patterns; and Brazilian Alexandre Herchcovitch, who also shows in Sao Paolo and Paris, and who presented a collection filled with off white, floral prints, and beach worthy straw hats along with his more fall like designs.

Which brings me to another point. As you know by know, I am immersed in the fashion business, which I have been a part of for a very long time. Since the Fall/Winter 2007 international round of shows for men and women are still fresh in my mind, the comparisons between what was presented for the grownups and what was just shown for the younger set are unavoidable. And as I keep pointing out, there is a continual blurring of the lines in terms of clothing and accessories being offered for every age group. This is also something I mentioned in my coverage of the Child Magazine Fashion Show (held at the Bryant Park Tents on the last day of the collections), where grown up styles by very grown up designers (Cynthia Rowley, Tory Burch, Liz Hurley) were presented on young star models.

Also speaking of New York Fashion Week…ever since the shows, I've been obsessed with hats. Hats of all kinds were a major statement on international runways and they have never looked better. Nor have there ever been so many different versions available. As a result, I found myself drawn to exhibitors at the Children's Club, who were showing hats and luckily, I had no trouble finding booths filled with wonderful knitted hats, caps, straw hats, cotton caps, athletic/ baseball caps, bandanas, special occasion hats, etc. Not that shoes, bags, jewelry are unimportant (because they are, and in fact, diaper bags have never been so plentiful nor have they looked so darn good) but there is a decided emphasis on everything from the neck up. That refers no only to hats and head coverings but to the entire range of hair accessories and hair ornaments.

 

Trends:

What season is it anyway? (The 'Al Gore' Factor: he's the one who warned us about Global Warming years ago and it's become a reality). There is a definite trend toward seasonless items, or items that span seasons. And don't forget: if it's winter here it's summer some place else.

The Wild Kingdom: "Where the Wild Things Are": Animals continue to be a beloved and favorite subject for both clothing and accessories of all kinds. Not only domestic animals like dogs and cats, but zoo animals (zebras, bears, monkeys, giraffes), prehistoric dinosaurs, birds, fish, and frogs, pigs (don't forget, it's the 'Year of the Pig' on the Chinese calendar), etc. And if you thought leopard or zebra patterns would be going away any time soon...think again! The perennial favorites (beloved by women of ALL ages), showed up on everything from home furnishings and bags, to sneakers, slippers, rain coats, rain hats, and umbrellas.

Elegant Baby's porcelain pigs

Angel Toes by Wiggy Studio hats

Birki's zoo collection

Kidorable dinosaur rainboots

 

Flora and Fauna: Flowers and floral prints (from teeny tiny to over scaled) were everywhere, sometimes darkly re-colored with fall/winter in mind (and sometimes not).

One size fits all: With the young ones getting bigger (and yikes…the old folks shrinking) there is far more overlapping in terms of sizes and fit. Of course, accessories are not sized like clothing, and many items can easily be worn by a wide range of ages and sizes. Moms sometimes love the tiny bags that their daughters carry (even though they like to 'schlep' their stuff in large totes) and many knitted hats and caps can easily stretch and expand to accommodate different head sizes.

'Prep' Rally: Pink and green all over…Certain classics and perennial favorites never go out of style and the classic collegiate preppy look has a fresh and timeless appeal that looks wonderful right now.

A. Tierney's prep assortment

 

Have it Your Way: At a time of so much brash commercialization and big branding, it's nice to know that the consumer and retailer can still have a say in the matter. Many manufacturers offer monogramming, personalization and customization of their products to ensure that one can assert one's individuality.

Mommy (or Daddy) & Me: Not only are many designs for the younger set mimicking what is being offered for grownups…but there is a continuing trend for 'star' designers who are known for their adult lines (Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan) to branch out into the kids' market.

'Get Smart': Well thought out, smart designs (things that have dual purposes, and not only look good but do good) prove the combination of form and function is hard to beat.

'Hat' Attack: Hats for boys and girls of all ages have never looked better nor have they been so abundant.

A. Tierney's tennis hats

Tuff Cookie's assorted hats

 

'Heads' Up: The entire category of hair accessories and hair ornaments (head bands, pony o's, hair clips, barrettes, etc.) continues to grow.

Lilies & Roses' floral hair accessories

Inca's assorted pony o's and clips

 

'Pattern' Pending: Bold geometric abstract prints and patterns (including oversized dots) were seen all over, adding interest to diaper bags, bedding, shoes, hair accessories, hats, home furnishings, etc.

Reese Li's geometric diaper bags

 

To 'Boot': Boots (from ankle to knee high) are being offered for every age group, and were shown in a wide range of materials and colors. And no, they are not just for winter anymore.

Michael Kors' studded boots

 

The 'Big Bag' Theory: Diaper Bags have become a major category and the focus of much attention and interest by the consumer. The designers (most of whom are parents themselves) are applying their creativity to this genre and are obviously intent on making them better and better, more user friendly, lightweight, and practical as can be (computers, anyone?) while not forgetting the surface appeal. Many are even unisex so that either parent can use it when they have 'child duty'.

Amy Michelle's diaper bags

 

'Shine On': Gold and silver leather are popular year round, and were seen on shoes for all ages, bags, belts, watchbands.

'Pearl' Jam: Pearls are classics and perennial favorites for every age group and right now, the bigger the better.

'Ballet' Class: The ballet slipper is a favorite with grownups and shows no signs of fading into the distance and this has trickled down to the young set. Ballerina flats are being offered in a dizzying number of fabrications, with trims and ornaments, and always look fresh.

Sam Edelman's ballet flats with hardware

 

'Loafing' Around: The collegiate loafer is being reinvented for boys and girls of every age, many with bold gold chains, buckles, jewels, nail heads, and studs for added surface interest.

'Fur' Sure: Nothing 'says' fall/winter quite like fur…which was a major part of the recent fall runways for men and women. And of course, fur (particularly found in small doses and little touches) was also seen at the Children's Club. (It doesn't even have to be cold to enjoy the benefits.)

 

Originally published March 30, 2007

 

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