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ON THE INSIDE WITH MARILYN KIRSCHNER

 

August 2009 Children's Club: "Rock of (All) Ages"

 

There were a number of things that struck me as I began to make my way around Pier 94 in New York, (the venue for the August (2-4, 2009) edition of the ENK Children's Club), on the lookout for a wide range of ideas and items within the accessory market (and by that I mean non clothing items: footwear, bags, hosiery, hair accessories, belts, hats, toys, games, home furnishings, beauty products, jewelry, hats, etc.).

Firstly, it was hard not to notice how sprawling a space it was and how packed and energetic it seemed. Surprising for a rainy lazy Sunday morning at the beginning of the Dog Days of August, especially considering the current economic downturn which has caused so much angst.

The venue was filled with a colorful (and I mean that literally in some cases) mix of exhibitors, (showing all manner of ready to wear, accessories, home furnishings, beauty products, educational toys, and more), geared for almost everyone in the family, from newborn and up (yes…everything seems to be overlapping these days). Most of those who participated were not only in good spirits, optimistic, and upbeat, but downright enthusiastic and highly passionate about their products. Unsurprisingly, many of this group were also enterprising parents, (both moms and dads, many of whom were equal business partners). They found a void in the market, were unable to find a product to their liking or one to suit their specific needs, and were inspired to come up with a solution. In the best cases, there was also that perfect 'marriage' of form and function: products and items that not only looked good and were pleasing to the eye, but served a purpose (or two, or three). Good news for the consumer, because in these troubled economic times, it makes one feel he/she is really getting a bang for her buck.

Something else I noticed at the show: while I am always on the lookout for the 'new kids on the block', in past seasons they may have been seemingly few and far between; not so this time around. I quickly happened upon many upstarts, some of whom had literally just launched just weeks or days before and were using the August Children's Club as their coming out party of sorts.

In addition, I was immediately struck by the number of exhibitors whose booths were stocked with that universal and affordable wardrobe staple: the tee shirt. I'm not talking about 'Plain Jane' T's, but statement making versions that were sloganed, printed, tie dyed, and/or jeweled and embellished with crystals, nail heads, and all manner of bling. I couldn't get over how many were decorated and emblazoned with peace signs (yet again!), skulls and crossbones, guitars, or bore the word, 'Rock' (as in 'rock n roll', 'rock' star, you 'rock', etc. ). I could not begin to count the number of times I saw 'rock' used in one way or another. What began several seasons ago as a noteworthy trend, had become a full blown phenomena, and what perfect timing since this summer (August 15th to be exact) marked the 40th anniversary of Woodstock. (Peace, love, and rock n' roll!)

While a rainbow of colors was on display (especially where tee shirts were concerned), the one shade that literally stole the 'show', was black (all the better to see those slogans, hand painted designs, nail heads, crystals and jewels, because everything 'pops' on a black background). This really 'rocked' my world since black is eternally hip, chic, and urbane. It's also the fashion world's favorite shade, and happens to be THE 'color of the moment' as we head into fall. In fact, black perfectly captures and symbolizes that whole urban, tough chic, biker babe thing that is completely 'now' (which doesn't escape me thanks to my longtime involvement with the fashion industry as a magazine editor). I always delight in observing the way in which the newborn, toddler, and tween market has mirrored that of the grown up set, and it has never been more obvious. The little ones are all of a sudden as hip, cool, urbane, rock star worthy, and as 'happening', as the adults. On second thought, perhaps it's the other way around.

Speaking of black; other than white, is there anything that pairs better with noir than pink? Again, a longtime favorite combo amongst iconic designers throughout history, and very couture inspired. While any shade of pink will do, since everything seems to be rock worthy, brash, and bold this season, not to mention 80's inspired, it's that eye catching shade of hot pink or fuchsia, which gets my vote as the most effective (Elsa Schiaparelli's signature color was called 'Shocking' Pink). Not only was 'shocking' or neon pink, used in tandem with black, seen all over the runways for Fall 2009 last February, it was all over the August Children's Club Show. Among the most popular ways it showed up, was in the form of a frothy girlie tulle tutu skirt or multi layered petticoat, paired with a rock worthy T-shirt. In fact, this item was so ubiquitous, I started thinking to myself, 'Tutu Cute', and coincidentally, one exhibitor who specializes in slogan T's, Special Tee Designs, actually had a skirted T, resembling a tutu, emblazoned with the slogan, 'Tutu Cute' right on front.

In addition to the apparent fixation on diaper bags for both moms and dads, (that are highly functional and look chic enough to carry all the time), the continued attention being paid to gift items and gift packaged sets, the importance of adhering to fair trade laws and being CPSIA compliant, another recurring theme that was all around (and one that is understandably a perennial favorite) was nature themed: flowers (the bigger the better), fruits, birds, bees, and all of God's creatures. These turned up as decoration, as lifelike facsimiles and shapes, or as prints and patterns, and were seen on everything from toys, accessories and playthings, to products for the home. There were insects (especially spiders and ladybugs), butterflies, frogs, zoo animals, ocean creatures, non threatening 'monsters', and of course, famous iconic 'characters' we've all come to know and love, like the Sesame Street gang. (FYI, November will mark the 40th anniversary of Sesame Street, and to commemorate the event, Morfs Brand has created a positively adorable and smile provoking group of T-shirts bearing the likenesses of Elmo, Bert, Ernie, Cookie Monster, etc.)

And of course, there were cats and dogs In the case of Man's Best Friend, one of the most cheeky, creative, outrageous, imaginative, quirkiest lines I found, Fuzzy Nation, revolves around a single idea: a plush dog purse (the breed of your choice) for those who love dogs but don't necessarily want to worry about having a real one. In fact, the product (which is meant for all ages) has already gotten a lot of well deserved publicity and has been picked up by Barneys New York. Get the picture? Everyone who passed by the booth, had to stop, smile, and investigate. It was really quite a scene and gave new meaning to 'Dog Days of August'.

Speaking of which….I have to admit that this time around, what really caught my eye and grabbed my attention were those exhibitors who were BOLD. And I'm not just referring to the 'obvious': bold patterns, bold colorations, and bold graphics. I'm talking about being bold in the sense of outrageous, daring, and 'out there'; having bold thoughts, bold ideas, bold philosophies, and a big 'bad', bold attitude. Being passionate about your product, really standing out and separating yourself from the crowd in a bold, gusty way, and caring about the world and our environment. Hey…these dour economic times are definitely not for the meek or faint of heart. Desperate times call for desperate measures.

 

Key Trends: (I've included corresponding images from the ready to wear market where applicable.)

 

Taking (Wood) stock: The 'Woodstock' Effect: peace, love, and rock n roll…as we mark the 40th anniversary of Woodstock this August…what could be more appropriate than flowers (flower power forever!), peace signs, and musical themes? Guitars, rock themes, and all the symbols normally associated with rock and roll have been affixed onto tee shirts, scarves, hats, clothing, accessories, and more. Are kids getting edgier, hipper, and cooler, or is my imagination?

Lanvin resort 2009

Bari Lynn's embellished flower headbands

Swankie Blankie large peace sign plush blanket

Special Tee Designs

 

 

Biker Babe: Tough chic, motorcycle chic, biker babe…whatever you call it it's all about the color black (from head to toe), zippers, cropped motorcycle jackets, motorcycle boots, and lots of edgy attitude.

Biker Babe by Alexander Wang

Chloe's black motorcycle boot

L'amour pink and black boots

 

 

(Don't) Fade To Black: It's truly all about head to toe black this season…fashion's favorite (non) color. And the appeal of noir is not limited to the adults, as evidenced in the recent Children's Club.

 

From Alexander Wang Fall 2009

From Cutie and Patootie

 

 

Simply 'Shocking': Shocking pink really 'rocks' especially when paired with black.

From Michael Kors Fall 2009

From Delilah Rose Couture (tutu) and Sweet Cheeks (embellished tee)

 

Metallica: Glitter and shine via metallics like silver and gold are perennial favorites for all ages, and were seen on everything from hair ornaments, backpacks, and footwear, to ready to wear.

The gold metallic Lauren shoe

Sweet Shoes' metallic Mary Janes

Silly Souls' Rock Star metallic shoes

 

 

'Stripe' It Rich: Classic, colorful, graphic stripes will never go out of style and add interest to everything.

Colorful stripes from Isaac Mizrahi Fall 2009

Zutano's bold dots and stripes 

 

Fine 'feathered' friends: Feathers are an ongoing favorite for girls of all ages, and seemingly decorate or cover a myriad of surfaces.

Jason Wu Fall 2009 pale feathered skirt

Jamie Rae's crocheted hat

 

Oxford 'U': It's all about menswear inspired lace up saddle shoes and oxfords.

 

Black Tie Optional: The appeal of the tuxedo never fades away, and tuxedo themed accessories capture the mood for the young set (it's never too young to be well dressed and well 'heeled').

The 3.1 Phillip Lim tuxedo

Elk's black tie soft soled shoes

 

Back 'Pack' to the Future: This back-to-school staple is not only the focus of accessory bag lines for the young set where they have never looked better; they are also the height of fashion for grownups….as they say "too cool for school".

Dsquared's backpack

Diaper Dude black 'Peace Rocks' bag

 

'Tutu' Cute: The frothy, girlie, tulle skirt was all over the Children's Club, often paired with leggings and a classic or not so classic T-shirt.

Ralph Lauren Fall 2009 tulle skirt

From Special Tee Designs

 

'Hail Mary' (Janes): The classic Mary Jane has never looked better nor has it been shown in so many incarnations. Flat and high heeled variations are being worn by well dressed grown ups too!

From J.Crew

Elk's gold a silver Mary Janes

 

'Training' Days: The athletic trainer has never looked better nor has it been more technologically crafted.

The Trainer by Cole Haan

Elk's graphic boy's sport shoe

 

'Creature' Comforts: Adorable, whimsical non human creatures whose images stare up at us from almost every surface imaginable are so cute you can't resist saying "ahhhh".

Morfs Brand's new Sesame Street line

Fuzzy Nation dog purses

3 Sprouts animal placemats

 

'Fruit' Salad Days: Everyone loves strawberries, bananas, lemons, apples, pineapples…and they're not just for eating.

Elk's strawberry shoe

 

Don't 'Bug Me': (spiders, ladybugs): They are obviously the most appealing when not the real pesky kind.

From Cutie and Patootie

Dante Beatrix Ladybug backpack

 

Diaper 'Rash': There is an ongoing influx of diaper bags and they are chicer than ever…most of them don't even look like diaper bags but great looking bags to carry for any occasion. And they're not just for moms!

 

'Gift'-ed: Pre packaged gift sets, gift items, and eye catching gift boxes (presentation is everything!) are an increasingly important category these days, judging by what I saw at the recent Children's club

 

Tee Time: T-shirts are not only an affordable and universal wardrobe staple and mainstay, but have become a bonafide and much glorified affordable fashion statement thanks to embroidery, jewel encrusting, transfer dying, and everything else under the sun it seems…the more the merrier,

 

The Bling Thing: If you think in your face bling would go away with the recession; think again. All manner of jewel encrusted T's, jewelry, and accessories, abounded at the Children's Club.

 

'The Mommas and the Poppas': Moms and dads are increasingly forming perfect 'marriages' in business as well…more than ever, they are together, creating the brand, and also managing the business side.

 

What's the 'use'? That irresistible combination of form and function couldn't be more timely in this recession. Items that not only look good, but are useful in more ways than one, are the best investment and were the highlight of the show.

 

'Zip' Code: Speaking about form and function…the zipper has never been more pronounced these days and is not only something useful, but decorative and statement making as well. And it's been seen on all manner of clothing and accessories for all age groups.

Balmain's zipper bootie.

The Zip Knot headband from Carolina Rodriguez. Young Fashionista is their new little-sister collection. U.S. importer: BebeSol.

From The Bumble Collection

 

 

Originally published August 20, 2009

 

 

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