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Just Bellissimo: The Collections at the Spring/Summer 2008 Pitti Bimbo Exhibition - Part II
AMERICANS AT PITTI PICAFLOR KIDS DESIGNER: Nancy Corando Homebase: Portland, OR Sizes: Preemie to 8 years; Wholesale prices: $5 to $22 Theme: "Miami Beach" In their words: "My inspiration for our Spring/Summer 2008 color palette and silhouettes was Art Deco Miami Beach where I grew up. This collection is a meeting of the colors of the Deco era with the cosmopolitan, international quirkiness that defines the area now." Like the collections included in the "Ecoethic" section, Picaflor "uses small-scale production and supports sustainable manufacturing through fair trade practices and personal commitment." The line, which is hand-knit in Peru, is brightly colored with clean, modern shapes. Favorites:
Understated colors are wonderful. For days when only happy tones will do, the fuchsia and orange wrap sweater and bell bottom set is the answer. Tel: 503-679-8019 E-mail: nancy@picaflorkids.com Overseas distributor: In Belgium - Principal Kids Tel: +32 486 70 6885 E-mail: info@principalkids.com
TEA COLLECTION Homebase: San Francisco, CA DESIGNER: Emily Meyer Sizes: NB to 8 years; Wholesale prices: $9-$41.50 Theme: "West Africa: Mali, Burkina Faso and Ghana" In their words: "The countries of West Africa are the inspiration for the Spring/Summer 2008 collection. Hand dyed indigo and mud cloths, the bold colors and motifs of the textiles and the extraordinary architecture is represented throughout the line." Each season, Meyer pulls from a different locale, then interprets the colors and motifs of those regions into highly wearable clothing that isn't the least bit costumey. Favorites:
Meyer shows off the rich, dusty spice tones found in African textiles in this plum and mauve shrug over the gold-tiered dress.
Two simple pieces take a girl to school or on safari. Tel: 415 621-9400 E-mail: info@teacollection.com Overseas distributor: In Belgium - Barbara Roll at Principal Kids Tel: +32 486 70 6885 E-mail: info@principalkids.com
OVERSEAS COLLECTIONS INFANT AND UP OILILY DESIGNER: Oilily design team Homebase: Holland Sizes: 3 months to 12 years; Wholesale prices: Contact manufacturer Theme: "Paradise Found" In their words: "…children prepare to enter the warmer climes of the seasons in collections that reflect their creative individuality and free-spirited attitude. Influenced by the hot tropics of a saturated summer paradise, vivid colors, vibrant prints, and relaxed silhouettes combine to create clothes that are set to raise the style barometer." To stress the hands-on, artistic quality of the collection, sewing machines were set up in the booth so designers could whip up custom ordered bags for retailers and the press.
There's nothing laid back about the bright prints, mixed patterns and innovative placements that are this collection's signature. This season, retailers will find paradise in hot pink tulle skirts, tile prints, funky appliqués and a metallic-coated linen trench coat. Favorites:
There's a lot going on with this appliquéd T-shirt and layered, tile-patterned skirt, yet its quiet coloring (quiet for Oilily, that is) keeps the look from going over the top.
What to pair with any T-shirt in this collection, or any tee for that matter? The streamlined shape of these flairs and the rich, multi-toned floral print make them the "go-to" piece in every girls' closet. U.S. retailers: Oilily stores; Little Luna Blue, Shelbourne, VT; All the Rage, Newport, CT U.S. sales representative: Oilily showroom Tel: 877 213-8565 E-mail: Amy@oililyusa.com
ERMANNO SCERVINO DESIGNER: Ermanno Scervino Homebase: Florence, Italy Sizes: 2 to 16 years; Wholesale prices: Contact manufacturer Theme: Ladylike design meets high-tech fabrications Scervino served up a crisp, feminine collection that was heavy on combinations of white with red, navy or silver. Favorites:
Lots of designers employed laser-cut cloth to fashion dresses and skirts. When Scervino uses the lace like textile for ruffles on this trench, the result is the prettiest coat at the show. Tel: +39 0556580620 E-mail: info@ermannoscervino.it U.S. retailers: Contact manufacturer Overseas distributor: Contact manufacturer
ROBERTO CAVALLI (ANGELS, ANGELS SHOES, DEVILS) DESIGNER: Roberto Cavalli Homebase: Jesi, Italy Sizes: NB to 14 years; Wholesale prices: Contact manufacturer Theme: "Gypsy Chic" for Angels; "Cruising Route 66" for Devils In their words: "Great swatches of color, music, lightheartedness, fun: that's the world where Roberto Cavalli's Angels and Devils live, a place where the imagination isn't bound by time or space, and where feelings are expressed dynamically and creatively." Cavalli offered delicate white wear, pinks and touches of gold for girls; boys' groups included denim and tees with a strong athletic slant. Favorites:
The delicate "Etoile" print on the modern halter-top is softly romantic with a bohemian edge. The flitting butterfly motifs embroidered on the lean jeans make an ideal "tea-in-the-garden" counterpart. Tel: +39 07312301 E-mail: info@felu.it U.S. retailers: Sold internationally U.S. sales representative: Contact manufacturer
HARTFORD DESIGNER: Yves Chareton Homebase: Paris, France Sizes: 2-14; Wholesale prices: $35-$80 Theme: "Endless summer" In their words: Hartford "has successfully blended the unique Parisian way of revisiting and mixing English tradition, Italian exuberance and American 'cool' to create a quirky urban look that is both chic and fantastically hip." This line is not only colored beautifully, it's merchandised so the mixing and matching is endless. The easy-to-wear shapes, materials such as soft, lightweight cotton and silk, and simple prints that don't scream, "look at me!" give the collection an effortless élan. Favorites:
This fresh blue boy's look is cool for the beach and for any casual daytime event.
The silk dress's prints stay small and delicate so nothing detracts from its intricate tailoring. The sweater is washed linen with the lightest, silkiest hand. Tel: (33) 01 47 03 64 84 E-mail: annesophie@hartford.fr U.S. retailers: Scoop Kids, NYC; Barneys, NYC; Fred Segal, CA U.S. sales representative: Randi Rubin in the ESP Showroom Tel: 212-997-0075 E-mail: randi@espshowroom.com
MISS GRANT DESIGNER: Miss Grant design team Homebase: Bentivoglio, Italy Sizes: 7-16 years; Wholesale prices: Contact manufacturer Theme: "Simplicity, beauty, emotion." In their words: "This is the time for harmony, for noble and technological materials, for the classic and the regained vigor…" White is right at Miss Grant. The designers paired white with silver for a glittering, diamond like effect, used the clean tone to spark neutrals and teamed the hue with black for a natural duet. The mood of the collection: energetic, athletic and fun. Favorites:
Madonna with poodle.
Hi Ho Silver! Tel: +39 051 6640426 E-mail: grant@grantspa.com U.S. retailers: Sold internationally U.S. sales representative: Contact manufacturer
NOLITA POCKET DESIGNER: The Nolita Pocket design team Homebase: Tombolo, Italy Sizes: 2 to 14 years; Wholesale prices: Contact manufacturer Theme: "Summer adventure for the young globetrotter" In their words: "Every trip requires attention to detail, love and…the right style so you'll always feel at home with glamour and fancy, anywhere you are!" Nolita Pocket presented a collection with a range of styles from athletic wear to filmy dresses and swimsuits: everything a jet-setting girl needs for a glamorous vacation. Taking advantage of the new high-tech materials, they fashioned linen garments with silk inserts as well as denim with a shiny wash. Working with a palette of aqua, silver, and white sparked with burnt orange, plum and lilac, the designers crafted easy to wear, playful items with a few stellar pieces. Favorites:
The richly colored flowered chiffon dress floats softly as the girl walks. It's ideal for a special occasion but the loose cut and playful frills make it just right for casual wear as well.
In a season of dynamic trench coats, this clear number is tops.
For the little golddigger.
Designers give pinstripes a feminine twist with this beautifully cut suit. Tel: +39 0497962600 E-mail: info@flashandpartners.it U.S. retailers: Contact manufacturer Overseas distributor: Contact manufacturer
SWEET LIZA BY LIZA KORN DESIGNER: Liza Korn Homebase: Paris, France Sizes: 1 to 8 years; Wholesale prices: $26-$48; Jacket: $276 In their words: "I used the same fabrics as my women's collections Liza Korn and Liza by Liza Korn for the children's line. The pieces are very simple and easy to wear. Because our kids are such rebels, the styles are romantic and sweet, but I worked in rock 'n roll looks too." Korn showed a quietly colored, charming collection for boys and girls that mixes simple Liberty prints with decorative touches like beading and gold metallic trim. Favorites:
Those bloomers are versatile enough to work with a tee or smock or beneath a dress - and they're so cute! Tel: +33 1 42 01 36 02 E-mail: lza@liza-korn.com U.S. retailers: None U.S. sales representative: None
UNI & VINTAGE DESIGNER: Christine Ekodo-Delaunay Homebase: Paris, France Sizes: NB to 10 years; Wholesale prices: Contact manufacturer Theme: Real vintage and high-tech fabrications team up in feminine, modern shapes Ekodo-Delaunay's two-year-old collection works vintage and new materials in a way that seems fluid, not forced. This line was the most cohesive yet with several "wow" pieces. Favorites:
This blue ensemble is so effortlessly chic. The blouse has a subtle silver metallic thread that lends a glow to the piece, and the skirt's thick pleats and heavy silk border possess a rich drape. Tel: +33 (1) 48 74 26 68 E-mail: univintage@aol.com U.S. retailers: Love, CT, and ABC Carpet and Home, NYC U.S. sales representative: None
ZEF DESIGNER: Mariu De Andreis Homebase: Paris, France Sizes: NB-16 years; Wholesale prices: $14-$36 This collection gave me the blues: bright blue, dusty, rich blues, barely there blues. And it's not just fabulous color that delighted me. De Andreis, who owns four boutiques in Paris, favors loose, simple shapes with just the right feminine details. Favorites:
Eyelet dresses were all over the show. Using the fabric as a detail on the inky blue dress makes it special.
This dress is somewhere between a vintage nightgown and playful summer frock. Like a night sky, the hand-embroidered stars twinkle. Tel: +33 1 43739772 E-mail: zef.inc@wanadoo.fr U.S. retailers: None Overseas distributor: None
ZOA DESIGNER: Alexandra Fiess Homebase: Paris, France Sizes: NB-12 years; Wholesale prices: $21-$69 In their words: Fiess and her husband own a boutique in Paris that specializes in vintage clothing for children. They've translated their love of nostalgic goods into their first collection for kids. Zoa offers gorgeous knits, some hand made with organic bamboo yarns, and charming clothing that references older eras but has a modern feel. Favorites:
Fiess translates "redwear," embroidery popular in the early 1900's, for this adorable smock alive with whimsical animals.
Part windbreaker, part motorcycle jacket with great lines and an attractive unisex shape. Tel: +33 (0) 614 093 081 E-mail: shop@zoa.fr U.S. retailers: None Overseas distributor: Diffusione Moda in Italy Tel: +39 0498901132 E-mail: pegoraro@diffusionemoda.it
ACCESSORIES: GREVI DESIGNERS: Silvano and Ada Grevi Homebase: Signa, Italy Sizes: infant through teens; Wholesale prices: Contact manufacturer Theme: Fantasy, quality, fun The Grevi company has been in the hands of the same family since 1875. Their exquisitely manufactured hats and purses for children are full of fanciful touches such as ribbon inlays and hand crafted floral adornments. Favorites:
The buttery colors, the filmy layers of tulle and those lovely roses look like something Renoir would paint. Tel: +39 055 87 6223 E-mail: info@grevi.com U.S. retailers: Barneys New York; 98% Angel, CA Overseas distributor: None
Originally published August 4, 2007
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