What a
difference a season makes! Remember the Peasant styling
of Spring 2003 with all the multitiered, triple-flounced,
embroidery and lace, lace, and more lace?
At the ENK Children's Club show held
in the Jacob Javits Center from January 12-14, designers
exhibiting early fall collections showed silhouettes with
fewer ruffles and colored their lines in sophisticated
solids and combinations that strongly reflect a European
aesthetic.
SILHOUETTES
-Shapes are no longer as flouncy as
spring. Single ruffles replace multi-tiers and simple,
above the knee A-lines or straight wrap skirts look
modern.
-Pants are still below the waist but
not as midriff baring as previous seasons. Infants' and
toddlers' styles often ended in a single, above the ankle
ruffle.
-Slouchy styled pants with big pockets
for boys and girls were popular.
COLORS
-Warm colors rule. Bright reds and
scarlets are still present but many collections exhibited
dustier, blue-tinged wines into reddish plums. A
combination seen over and over is wine mixed with a
dusty, almost mauve pale pink.
-Pinks are still popular, but the
fruity fuchsia of spring is now bluer. Every weight of
pink from the palest to the deepest appeared in infant
through junior collections. A dusted down, mauvey pale
pink in infant collections, especially high-ticket items
like cashmere sweaters and hats, was
everywhere.
-Orange has been replaced with pumpkin
that is deeper than in past seasons and has a definite
dustier, browner feeling.
-Dusty, light blue with a touch of
aqua, a more somber color than the cleaner cerulean and
sky blues we've seen in previous seasons, was seen in
knit collections and used as a mixer with other dusty
pastels.
-Olives mixed with navys and taupes in
dark weights lent boys' wear an elegant edge. For girls,
olives to lighter khakis to pale, greenish taupes made an
impact when the neutral was partnered with dark wine.
-A slightly grayed, very pale bone
replaces cream. Cocoas from very light to the deepest
espresso mix together, and combine with soft taupes;
brown in combination with blue continues to be a popular
color combination.
FABRICS
-Denim - bleached and faded, some with
embroidery - was seen in some collections, but denim
seems to be waning.
-Luxury fabrications like real suede,
cashmere and wool were present in upper-market
collections. Synthetic versions, especially washable
suede were used in shirting, skirts and, of course,
outerwear.
-Soft touch corduroy, last years "it"
fabric is still around. Embroidery updates the
look.
- Fur-like fleece on the collars of
jackets, coats, sweaters and edging purses, scarves and
headwear is important.
PATTERNS
-Romantic florals in dark
colorations.
-On boys' t-shirts - sports motifs or
old-style labels that have a hand-drawn or one-of-a-kind,
hand-stamped quality replace previous seasons' computer
generated icons.
-Men's wear-style wool pinstripes in
sportswear.
ACCESSORIES
-Hair accessories glittered with
sequined clips in pale pastels to deep, jewel
tones.
-Lots of headbands covered in rich
grosgrain ribbon or crocheted flowers in autumnal tones
of wine, pumpkin and more traditional navys and forest
greens lent hair accessories a traditional
elegance.
-Shaggy, fuzzy looking headbands,
covered rubber bands and barrettes updated hair
accessories.
-Crocheted bags and hats that resemble
grandma's afghans continue last seasons' handcrafted
hippy feeling.
-Suede and leather hats, some adorned
with suede or leather "modish" flowers looked especially
luxurious for girls.
-Close to the head, knit hats looked
very Ali MacGraw in Love Story.
ON THE OUTS
.denim, overwrought peasant
styling, toiles, glitter.