A little bit of Europe
this side of the Hudson: August ENK Show, Javits Center,
NYC
Last spring's styles were reminiscent
of Woodstock. For spring 2004, all the little hippies
went abroad and returned with just the right je ne sais
quoi.
TRENDS
Fit to a Tee. T-shirts are the
"It" gift this season.
For infants and toddlers, cute and
sweet are swapped for tees with humor. Fancy script
embroidered initials look very Martha Stewart;
pro-feminist slogans and come-ons from personal ads are a
not-so-subtle way of revealing parents' politics.
Tweens and junior tees printed with
antique label designs then dusted with beads or
rhinestones. Laced-up fronts or peasant detailing
feminized athletic girls' tees. Tops that that could have
been worn 30 years ago at Camp Fireside had retro appeal.
Layered images of Japanese animated cartoons looked busy
yet exciting.
Gilding the Lily - Imagine
tanned blondes playing golf in Palm Beach and you've got
the look. Lots of Lily Pulitzer-like hot pinks and apple
greens.
Over it - Everything was
layered - skirts over pants; short, ruffled shrugs over
T-shirts or dresses; multi-paneled skirts worn one atop
the other.
Stripes - Head to toe, on
everything including sandals.
Deep Pockets - big-pocketed
pants for boys and girls continue. Girls' pants look
feminine when the pockets are gathered.
Sporty - Athletic looking
fitted tee's, hoodies and short skirts look fresh for
girls' casual wear.
Ruffles - Multitiered skirts
were everywhere last spring. They're still around, but
this season the tiers sport quieter, tiny floral prints,
cream-on-cream combinations, or retro-prints. Last year's
big ruffles around collars and wrists have been replaced
with a discreet, thin, ruffle or two. Short shrugs that
tie at the collar or close with one button - their
collars, hems and wrists outlined with a single ruffle -
were the newest way to layer. Short lengths of ruffles
were used as decorative touches on a neckline or to hold
up one layer of a skirt or dress.
Completely Vertical - Vertical
gathers outlined the seams of skirts in a fancy,
curtain-like motif. The best of these were done in simple
neutral cottons sometimes with unfinished hems. Vertical
gathers crimped the seams of tees and blouses.
Unfinished Business - Exposed
seams with raw edges loosened up dressy white blouses or
gave the bottom of A-line skirts a new edge.
Happy Hunting - Enough
motorcycle mamas. Belted, cinched, self-tied and
multi-pocketed, the safari look is the new denim jacket.
Neutrals keep the look fresh in creams, khakis, beiges,
and black denim.
Satin Doll - The boxing ring
influences girls' sportswear. Look for satin cargo skirts
with striped elastic waists and matching hoodies. Take
that Mike!
The Glitterati - Customized
wristbands with a child's name outlined in rhinestones.
Very Sex and the City.
SILHOUETTES
Skirts make a
comeback:
Donna Summer returns! -
Graceful skirts with enough room for tweens and juniors
to Hustle on the dance floor. Knee length or just above,
skirts - in crisp cotton prints, solids or pretty
flowered synthetics - were cut longer on the sides,
shorter on one side, or longer in the back.
Ballerina Style - Just grazing
the knee, A-lines with pleats or circle-skirts looked
elegant in neutrals, tiny floral prints or splashy floral
cotton.
Short and Sweet - Narrow, short
skirts with multiple zippers take on a techno edge. When
the skirts are embellished with cargo pockets they have a
military flair and when they're loosened up and pleated
they're sweet but not too.
Pants:
I can sum this up in one word: Cargo.
Less important looks were the ruffle-trimmed hems for
infants and toddlers, and sailor-style, wide legged pants
in solids and stripes.
COLORS
Rosy and Riveting - Light,
dusty mauves to orchidy pinks were important. Peach cast
pinks were the exception. Designers used dusty, light
pink as solids and in combination with a pink-tinged
cocoa, khaki or light blue. Brighter pinks were mixed
with a pink-cast orange in stripes and florals often
accented with an apple green.
Earth and Sky - soft cocoa and
light blue combinations are carried over from
fall.
Cream of the Crop - layers of
creamy off-white, tan, khaki and light cocoa blended
together.
PATTERNS
-Some camouflage.
-Tiny, Liberty-inspired florals in
multi-toned mixes.
-Vintage wallpaper stripes in soft,
bleached colors overprinted with tiny roses either in
pastels or brighter hues to pop the print.
-Stripes, large scale, narrow and
ticking in different sizes patched together.
-Tropical, Hawaiian looks. The most
original had a Japanese, wood block feeling.
-Loosely drawn florals with a 50's
sensibility became exciting when their monochromatic,
tone-on-tone colorings were accented with a shot of
color.
FABRICS
Cotton Pickin' - Cotton rules
this season. From butter-soft cotton knits, gauzy linen,
handkerchief-fine Batiste to heavy, denim-weight
goods.
Satin Doll - Girls' cargo
skirts and hoodies borrow style from the boxing
ring.
Rickrack - The "it" trim.
ON THE OUTS
Heavy, Folkloric embroidery,
toile prints.